Hot Damn

The best breakfast-brunch-lunch-dinner-ever is a plate of chilaquiles.

I'm not sure where my love affair with chilaquiles came from. I grew up in a community with a fair amount of people from Mexico but had never even heard of them (chilaquiles, not Mexicans). It's one of those home cook secrets/peasant-style dishes found in every culture where you have leftover this and a scrap of that and make something absolutely delicious and comforting. I can't contain how stoked I am.

The first time I heard about this dish, I think, was from an old roommate of mine (of San Diego/Mexican descent) and I decided to try out the dish at Eat Records where I moonlighted as a guest brunch chef on the weekends. I made huge casserole dishes of the good stuff and baked eggs on top. Baking eggs are a little fussy for me on the weekends where I want to cook brunch fast and inhale it even faster. I'm really not a beast, I just love to eat.

The basic elements of chilaquiles consist of torn up corn tortillas (preferably not fresh) fried to a crisp then tossed into a pan with red or green sauce and topped with eggs or meats and little goodies like avocado, cheese, sour cream, raw onions...whatever fits your fancy. I prefer the green variety. There is no science to this recipe just whatever you have around and your personal taste. I guess it could suck if you have bad taste, but that's your problem. Don't blame the chilaquiles.

Chilaquiles Verde
Serves one

2 tablespoons canola or corn oil
2-6 in. corn tortillas (I used blue ones); cut into eight triangles
1/2 small onion, chopped on the fine side, set aside a little more for finishing
1/2 jalapeno with seeds, sliced
1/2 cup - or more - of jarred salsa verde, Goya is always a solid choice
1/2 avocado, sliced or cubed
1/2 cup egg whites (all I had)
small handful shredded cheddar cheese
small handful of chopped cilantro
salt & pepper



Start off by heating a heavy, medium sized pan over high heat. Add oil and test to see if it's hot enough by putting a little piece of tortilla in the pan. If it sizzles then put tortilla pieces in the pan on one layer. You'll probably have to do two batches unless you're using a monster-sized pan. Fry until they poof up and get crispy like chips, then set aside on some paper towels to drain. Next, throw the onions and jalapenos in the same pan but make sure to turn the heat WAY down, to low-medium. Stir around until they soften and then add the salsa. Simmer until everything is nice and hot, and add the chips back in. You want the chips softened with a little crunch left. Put the mixture to one side of the pan, and make a little area to scramble you eggs. Season the eggs with salt and pepper, and cook until they're done to your liking. Take one big stir and then put in a shallow bowl or plate. Top with cheese, cilantro, onions, and avocado. Hot Damn.

Whoa Momma

So, this doesn't really have to do with mom besides the fact that she eats yogurt every morning with all sorts of goodies mixed in (rolled oats, wheat germ, fruit, etc). I had a breakfast that was so good it made me say "whoa momma"...in my head at least (I'm at work). I am attempting to bring my own food to work these days since it's better for my health and my wallet, but I'm lazy about packing it and really enjoy finding food in Soho throughout the work day. It's a welcome distraction from , well, work.

I had leftover sweetened toasted coconut from a Tres Leches cake I made for Helen's baby shower (recipe forthcoming or else I'll forget it and it was GOOD), blueberries and Greek yogurt.

I just mixed the three together and it was so so delicious. You know why really addictive, gourmet-ish or non-gourmet granola tastes so good. Coconut. I went straight to the source and will now be sprinkling it on everything I can.

To toast sweetened, flaked coconut:

In a 350F degree oven, place coconut on cookie sheet, spreading as thin as humanly possible (so it toasts evenly).

Watch it closely and stir it around. Keep watching -- it burns very quickly -- then take out when fragrant and toasty-brown colored.

Muscle Man Greens

I love greens. Spinach, swiss chard, bok choy, watercress and especially kale. Kale is not a wuss. Kale is plentiful in the winter and inexpensive (how many things are plentiful and inexpensive!). Kale is a survivor. You can buy it and throw it in the darkest, most untouched depths of your fridge and discover it a week and a half later -- and it's in mint condition patiently waiting to be cooked. But I digress. These recipes are about eating on a cleanse tonight. I'm doing a week-long detox cleanse and I was hungry. My body was seriously begging for food.

Luckily I could eat a piece of salmon and greens. Hurrah! Real food! If you actually look up this cleanse, you'll find that I totally cheated and didn't follow the rules and only stayed straight by using the salmon and greens. I did discover that I'm a kale genius. Well, I might have been to the point where anything would have tasted like ambrosia, but you'll have to be the judge of that.

I made two courses, and was really only supposed to eat one. Whoops.

Steamed Kale with a Soft Boiled Egg and Chili Oil

1 bunch of regular curly kale, divided
1 egg
A teaspoon of chili sesame oil, or to taste
A dash of soy sauce
A couple squirts of sriracha hot sauce

First off put the egg in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring it to a boil, and once it starts to boil turn the heat off. Let it sit in the water to stay warm while you do other things, or if you want your egg gooier just put the egg on the counter.

Next de-rib the kale, stack the leaves and cut it cross-wise into very thin slivers. Put a few inches of water into a tall saucepan and place the steamer basket in. Dump all of the kale into the pot, packing it in. Cover and let steam for 10-15min, or until it has decreased in size by about half.

Here's where your own personal preference comes in: Using about 3/4 of the kale, put in a bowl and season with the chili oil and soy. Be careful not to overdue it with the oil/soy, as you want the kale soft and fairly dry. Next, place the soft-boiled egg (de-shelled, duh) on top of the kale and halve or smash up so it's insides are showing. Squirt some sriracha on the egg and kale and devour.

Disclaimer: I ate this while I was making the my actual dinner

Salmon with Scorched Scallions and Kale

1 6-8oz salmon fillet, preferably wild Alaskan with the skin on
a couple tablespoons olive oil
mix of dried herbs (parsley, rosemary, thyme, whatever you like)
3 or so scallions, white and pale parts only, cut lengthwise into skinny wisps
A cup of previously steamed kale
1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a non-stick pan. Throw in the scallions until they sizzle and soften, and throw in the dried herbs. I actually used this "pesce" herb mix my friend brought my back from Rome in an unmarked plastic bag so I'm not totally sure what was in it...sorry. Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Make a clearing in the pan and place the salmon skin side down. Turn up the heat a little so the salmon skin gets nice and crispy. Move the scallions around so they don't burn and flip the fillet after 5-10 minutes (depending on the thickness and how well done you want it) and cook an additional 5 minutes. If the skin needs more crisping time, flip it over again and put all of the scallions on top of the fillet to rest. Even if you don't need to crisp it more, do this anyways and just take out of the pan immediately and onto a plate. Next throw in the kale and the vinegar, deglazing the pan and using the kale as your mop. This cleans your pan also. Two in one!

I put the kale on top of the salmon and scallions and enthusiastically dug in.

Christmas Gable-Style

A few things.

It's been a long while. My apologies. The only reason that I decided to write some words down was a request from my lovely and talented friends at http://luvinspoonfuls.wordpress.com/. I sent the following recipe idea to them for their “Luvin Spoonfuls Economical Holiday Recipe Contest!”. Alas, I was a little late, and missed the actual contest, but I can explain.

My brother had to stay in the city due to work obligations, and being the good sister I am (sometimes) decided to stay here with him. The past few days have been spent planning, cooking and eating a lobster/sausage/moonshine/dance party blow out for Christmas Eve and a semi-traditional Christmas dinner. Yes, it was the expected Christmas dinner with a standing rib roast, gravy and the like -- but also hanging around were some jewel-toned latkes and horseradish thrown in the mashed potatoes for good measure... An homage to our half-Jewish roots.




So this recipe is sadly not an original but is extremely cheap and delicious. Besides some tired vegetables you have to dig up (either in your vegetable crisper, the corner grocery, or your garden), everything else you probably have in your fridge and cupboards. Though the ingredients are everyday ho-hum, it seems like a holiday treat once your kitchen smells like frying onions and you dollop generous amounts of sour cream on the end product.

You could make this with any old root vegetable: sweet potato, parsnips, celery root, purple potatoes, etc. Other vegetables would work fine, just as long as they're moist when grated such as zucchini, butternut squash, or even apples and pears. This recipe makes about 8 little pancakes. You'll want to double the recipe, I promise.

Beet and Carrot Latkes
adapted from Bon Appétit, March 1998

1 cup or so of coarsely grated beets, about one large/medium (raw, peeled)
1 cup or so of coarsely grated carrots, about 3 small/medium (raw, peeled)
1 small, thinly sliced onion
1 egg
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1/4 cup flour
olive oil

Combine all of the veggies in a medium bowl, then gently stir in the egg, salt and pepper. Next, sprinkle the flour in and give it another stir. Heat up about a tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat in a large frying pan. Drop about a 1/3 cup of the mixture (depending on how large you want them) into the pan and flatten with a spatula. Wait about 5 minutes until the latkes begins to brown and hold together. Flip and cook on the other side for 4-5 minutes.

I would eat these out of the pan, but if you must wait, keep them warm in a 300F oven.

Eat with sour cream mixed with capers and fresh dill or sour cream with scallions and lemon zest.

Mama Mia

I was inspired to cook tonight by my mother and her only, as my lack of sleep and drinking habits these past few days usually amount to me ordering in on a Sunday night like this...My mom, who does not have the food memory (or would it be obsession?) that my father and I share, recently recounted a braised lamb shank ragu I made during one of my few trips home to Florida over the past few years. She requested that my dad make it for Mother's Day this year. I was honored. Though she loves to eat and has become somewhat of a gourmand due to being married to my father for (almost) 28 years, I don't recall her ever asking for a recipe of one of my made up savory concoctions. She really has more of a sweet tooth. With lamb ragu on the mind, and unseasonably chilly weather I decided to make a ragu of my own. Instead of lamb shanks, I used some Italian sweet sausage I salvaged from the freezer. I have always used sausage as a quick, flavorful fix. What I have learned is that simmering it for awhile -- makes an unbelievably silky sauce. By silky, I mean I was greedily licking the pot after I had put leftovers away for Jordan to eat when he gets home. This sauce is best served with a chunky pasta to hold all of the glorious sauce.


Sweet Sausage Ragu

About a pound of sweet Italian sausage, casing removed
1 med-large onion, chopped
4-5 large garlic gloves, minced
2 small-medium carrots, chopped
4 or so halves of sun dried tomatoes, packed in oil, finely chopped
2-3 bay leaves
28-oz can of plum tomatoes, either whole or chopped
fresh ground pepper

I really think that's it, though the flavors taste so much more complex due to the long cooking time.

Begin by browning the sausage over med-high heat in a little olive oil in a large dutch oven or stock pot, until it is fully cooked through. Add the onions, garlic, carrots, and sun-dried tomatoes. Cook until vegetables are softened, stirring up any brown bits off the bottom. Add the bay leaves, tomatoes and a little water. Bring to a simmer and cover. Turn the heat down to low and relax. Check on the the sauce periodically, giving it a stir or two, and making sure it doesn't bubble over. After about an hour or so, give it a taste. I added a ton of black pepper and a dash of granulated garlic powder (I couldn't help it!). Don't forget to take the bay leaves out.

Serve over pasta and grate fresh parmesan cheese and extra black pepper over the top. Delish!

I'm embarrassed that it's been over a year since I've recounted my eating and cooking endeavours. There are so many recipes gone undocumented...but on the bright side I'm still at it (eating that is). Not that tonight was any different than any other I've had time to make a proper meal, but I realized that if I actually wanted to re-create it someday down the road I needed to write it down. What a novel idea. It's been a lazy Sunday and I was in the mood for Mexican comfort food.

Black Bean-Chorizo Gravy Tacos
Lime, Red Onion, and Pickled Jalapeno Quinoa
Sauteed Garlic Kale
Serves 3 (with leftovers if you have any self-discipline)

Black Bean-Chorizo Gravy Tacos
1lb fresh chorizo sausage
1 tablespoon of olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 fresh jalapenos, seeded, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
large handful of grape tomatoes
1 cup or so of beer, I used Presidente
1 can of black beans
1/2 to 1 cup salsa verde, depending on preference

Whole Wheat Tortillas (6 or 8in)

To Garnish:
Crumbled Feta
Chopped Scallions
Sliced Avocado
Lime wedges


I hope the word gravy doesn't turn anyone off, but the liquid in the recipe reduces into this glorious substance that has a velvetly mouthfeel akin to nothing else but the g-word. Begin by browning the chorizo and olive oil in a heavy-bottomed dutch oven or saucepan over med to med-high heat. If the chorizo is in casing, be sure to squeeze the meat out... I find this very fun. Break up the chorizo with a wooden spoon into bite size pieces and cook until it's brown in spots and to the point where most of the fat has rendered. Don't be tempted to be be virtuous and drain some of the fat off. For a split-second I thought about this, but if I had done so it would have been foolish mistake. Throw in the chopped vegetables and tomatoes, and coat them well with bright orange oil. Once well mixed, pour in the beer and cover for about 20 minutes. Stir occasionally if you feel like it. Then add the black beans and salsa verde. Cover and simmer 15 minutes. Take off the lid and reduce until the mixture is nice and thick. To serve, use a slotted spoon and put as much as you like in to a tortilla and top with crumbled feta, chopped scallions, avocado and a squeeze of lime.

Lime, Red Onion, and Pickled Jalapeno Quinoa

1 1/2 cups organic quinoa
zest of one lime
juice of one lime
1/2 medium red onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup pickled jalapenos, finely chopped
A few tablespoons of olive oil
salt

This is such a simple recipe, and really exceeded my expectations of a last minute side dish...

Make the quinoa according the the directions on the package. Mix lime zest, lime, red onion and jalepeno together and add to cooked quinoa. Finish with olive oil and add salt to taste. Seriously, that's it.

Sauteed Garlic Kale

One bunch organic kale, trimmed and torn into 2-inch pieces
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
granulated garlic powder
salt

Saute the garlic slices in olive oil over medium heat- once fragrant, add the kale in batches. Cook until wilted and season with salt, garlic powder and a drizzle of olive oil.

Potato Salad Season

Since I've made potato salad roughly three times in the past month, I decided it was time to share. Granted - potato salad is not difficult to make, and this is not a remake of the original. This is the potato salad I grew up with, compliments of my Maine-born-and-raised mother. The below recipe makes enough for a crowd (15-20 people), and leaves leftovers which are better than eating the freshly made stuff. This is a rough outline for a recipe to do with as you will.

6-7 lbs red skinned potatoes

2 packages of frozen peas
3-4 stalks of celery, finely minced
1/4 - 1/2 large red onion, finely minced
3 scallions (all parts) trimmed, chopped, optional
6 hard boiled eggs, chopped
1 1/2 cups or so of Hellmann’s Light Mayonnaise
2-3 heaping tablespoons of Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons salt, or to taste
Lots of freshly ground black pepper

Having made this so much recently, I feel like somewhat of an expert in this style of potato salad. This is far from the truth, but I have acquired many tips - so be warned.

First throw halved (if large) or whole potatoes into a large stockpot. Fill with cold water and place over very high heat, cover. Bring it to a rolling boil, which will roughly take 30-40 minutes. While the potatoes are cooking combine celery, red onion, mayo, mustard, salt and pepper. Let peas thaw on counter or put them in a colander and run warm water over them.

This is the fun part: after the potatoes have come to a boil and have cooked for 20 minutes, stick a fork in one to check for doneness. If you can easily slide the fork in and the potato breaks apart easily - turn off the heat. Drain the potatoes and put half back in the pot. Here I break apart the potatoes with a fork and knife into large, irregular chunks (skins and all). This also creates a starchy potato mush that I live for. Combine half of the potato mixture to the mayo mixture. Repeat with the remainder of the potatoes. Lastly, fold in peas and eggs. You can't over mix this, so go to town. Check for seasoning as you may like it saltier (add salt, duh), more piquant (mustard or pepper), or more wet (mayo or starchy potato water). Sprinkle with scallions if you're into that. Dig in!